I found the right adjustment by looking at a bunch of different fitting books. Then I watched a video at Power Sewing. It showed adding the extra width along the front center of the pattern. This video alone made the fees worth while. I have struggling to get this part of the pattern right. I'm going to change it a little bit by adding the extra fabric with short darts and easing a small amount of fabric across the front.
Louise Cutting One Seams.
I made four changes to the original pattern.
- I added 3.5" in length. I added the extra length in two places.
- I copied the back crotch extension from my PMB pattern and added it to the LC back pattern piece.
- Of course I had to add some extra width to the pattern.
- I raised the back pattern height by .75" to prevent the pants from dipping down in the back.
I like both pairs of pants. There is a little bit too much fabric across the front and sides of the pants but they are wearable. I going to retrace the original pattern. Make all of the changes except use less width. I'm going to use the same front adjustment on this pattern. I might reduce the back crotch extension by .25"
My goal is to end up with two patterns for pants that can work with different fabrics. The PMB pattern will be used for mediumweight or stiffer fabrics. The One Seams will be used for fabrics that are soft. I'm so close to the pattern that I want.