Pants

This is a long post but I want to write down where I'm at with my pants pattern as a reference for future pants. I'm working on tweaking a couple of pants patterns for a better fit. I drafted one pattern from PMB. I've been working on this pattern for a long, long time and it is close to being a TNT. The only thing that this pattern needs is a full abdomen adjustment. Most fitting books recommend that you add extra fabric to the sides of the waist but I don't need the extra fabric on the sides. I need it across the front center of the pants for sitting room.

I found the right adjustment by looking at a bunch of different fitting books. Then I watched a video at Power Sewing. It showed adding the extra width along the front center of the pattern. This video alone made the fees worth while. I have struggling to get this part of the pattern right. I'm going to change it a little bit by adding the extra fabric with short darts and easing a small amount of fabric across the front.

The second pattern is Louise Cutting One Seams. 

I made four changes to the original pattern.

1. I added 3.5" in length. I added the extra length in two places.
2. I copied the back crotch extension from my PMB pattern and added it to the LC back pattern piece.
3. Of course I had to add some extra width to the pattern.
4. I raised the back pattern height by .75" to prevent the pants from dipping down in the back.

The pattern and her directions are awesome. The pants go together like a dream. When I get this pattern right, it will take less than 3 hours from cutting out the pattern to hemming the pants. The first pair turned out so well that I finished them. I made a second pair from a light gray silk/bamboo fabric from A Fabric Place. This fabric was a dream to work with except for the raveling.  This fabric is so soft. I took out some width  with the second pair of pants. The only change in construction that I made was to serger finish the top and bottom of the pattern pieces while they were still flat fabric pieces.

I like both pairs of pants. There is a little bit too much fabric across the front and sides of the pants but they are wearable. I going to retrace the original pattern. Make all of the changes except use less width. I'm going to use the same front adjustment on this pattern. I might reduce the back crotch extension  by .25"

My goal is to end up with two patterns for pants that can work with different fabrics. The PMB pattern will be used for mediumweight or stiffer fabrics. The One Seams will be used for fabrics that are soft. I'm so close to the pattern that I want.