I'm really hard to fit and need a lot of changes to get commercial patterns to fit. I started thinking about the changes that I need so I decided to make a list.
- Neck and shoulder adjustments. I cut out patterns at least two sizes smaller along the shoulder and neck down to the armhole. Sometimes I need a forward shoulder adjustment.
- Bust adjustments - Full bust adjustment and lower the bust dart. Make a petite adjustment between the shoulder and the bust.
- Armscye adjustments - Narrow and raise the armholes for a closer fit to the body. Take out excess ease under the arms. Sometimes I need to narrow the biceps.
- Make a rounded back adjustment and a broad back adjustment.
- For pants and skirts - I need to increase the waist, take out the hip curve, make a large abdomen adjustment and a flat seat adjustment. I have to peg the sides and backs of all skirts.
- I need to add length to every pattern piece usually divided into two-three different areas.
I have had a love/hate relationship with PMB. The learning curve is steep and there are times when I wanted to throw the computer out the window. I made peace with the basic program when I realized that it is just a computerized way of hand drafting a pattern. I make the same decisions that I would if I was drafting a pattern using a basic sloper. I have to make all of the design decisions. How wide should the collar be? what shape? How does one change impact another? All in all, I think that it is worth the price of admission because I don't have to make fit adjustments for each pattern.
I've learned to make muslins and I keep a supply of muslin in the sewing room. I'm working on developing a set of TNT designs that I can use as basic slopers.