Altering patterns

I have been thinking about computer pattern drafting patterns a lot this weekend. PMB has a new update for the program coming out in October. They have been unveiling the program on the forums Wild Ginger - 15 Weeks to Wild They are adding new styles and making some nice changes. I've had this program for a minute and think that I finallly have fixed most of my fitting issues. I'm excited about the changes and will be happy to play with the upgrade. Yesterday, I played with the download for Bernina My Label. I like the program but have a granddaughter that I would rather spend the money on.

I'm really hard to fit and need a lot of changes to get commercial  patterns to fit. I started thinking about the changes that I need so I decided to make a list. 

1. Neck and shoulder adjustments. I cut out patterns at least two sizes smaller along the shoulder and neck down to the armhole. Sometimes I need a forward shoulder adjustment.
2. Bust adjustments - Full bust adjustment and lower the bust dart. Make a petite adjustment between the shoulder and the bust.
3. Armscye adjustments - Narrow and raise the armholes for a closer fit to the body. Take out excess ease under the arms. Sometimes I need to narrow the biceps.
4. Make a rounded back adjustment and a broad back adjustment.
5. For pants and skirts - I need to increase the waist, take out the hip curve, make a large abdomen adjustment and a flat seat adjustment. I have to peg the sides and backs of all skirts.
6. I need to add length to every pattern piece usually divided into two-three different areas.

It is a lot of work to get patterns to fit. For a long time, I stopped sewing out of frustration because nothing fit. It has taken me two years to figure out what changes are needed. I have learning a lot over the last two years and think that I can make things that fit most of the time......

I have had a love/hate relationship with PMB. The learning curve is steep and there are times when I wanted to throw the computer out the window. I made peace with the basic program when I realized that it is just a computerized way of hand drafting a pattern. I make the same decisions that I would if I was drafting a pattern using a basic sloper. I have to make all of the design decisions. How wide should the collar be? what shape? How does one change impact another?  All in all, I think that it is worth the price of admission because I don't have to make fit adjustments for each pattern.

 I've learned to make muslins and I keep a supply of muslin in the sewing room. I'm working on developing a set of TNT designs that I can use as basic slopers.