Sunday, December 6, 2009

Simplicity 2598 tank top & Burda Jacket 141 /11 09


Last weekend, I made the tank top from this pattern. I cut the top longer, cut the neck and shoulder area 2 sizes smaller. Added 2 inches in length and did a rounded back adjustment. I also added a binding to the armhole instead of a facing. This pattern goes on the TNT list.

I thought about making the cardigan but I'm not sure that I need that much fabric hanging off this body. I decided to use a pattern from the Nov 09 Burda mag. This pattern was meant for a woven fabric. I used a modal knit from fabric.com. I made the usual rounded back adjustment, cut the neck and shoulder area two sizes smaller, moved the bust dart lower and added two inches in length. i used a serger rolled hem instead of the facings. It took me 45 minutes to finish all of the edges. I plan to make the this set again. the jacekt is nice because I can wrap it around me but there is not too much fabric.

Vogue 8605


I needed a lightweight coat to wear when going from the car to a building. I wanted something which was quick to make and not too bulky. The fabric had been in the stash for a couple of years. I started to make another design but didn't have enough fabric so I searched my pattern stash and came up with this pattern.
Three quarter sleeves will not work in Baltimore winter weather so I added an extension to the sleeve. I added 4 inches in overall length and another 1.5 inches for a bust adjustment. My bust is larger than the pattern but I realized that I didn't need extra fabric because the coat is very loose fitting. I just needed the extra length. The other changes were a rounded back adjustment and I took out 2.5 inches of excess fabric under the arm. I sued a oversized snap for the closure.

I made a template for the pocket and chalked the pocket to get it in the right position.

I should have checked the suggested fabric because the coat doesn't have the drape that the pattern needs. It is a little stiff and stands away from the body. I want to make the skirt from this pattern. The finished coat turned out okay and will serve its purpose. The coat passed the DH test. I will make the coat again using a fabric with more drape.

Sunday, November 22, 2009

A Sea of Blackness - Fall/winter Sewing 09/10

Warning, this is a long post. Actually this is a note to myself and you can read it if you want. I just wanted to record my thoughts as I think about what to make.

I'm back to sewing with black fabric for form a core wardrobe. I wear a lot of black and mainly separates. I need clothes that can be mixed and matched. This started because I needed to replace all of my black skirts and pants because of fit or they were just not right. I wanted to have a set of basic garments that I could mix with other colors. The goal is to reach in my closet and come away stress free. Another motivation is to use up a chunk of stash fabric.

Of course, I had to buy some more fabric to round out this collection. The good thing is that I have planned a definite use for each fabric that I bought. I have managed to avoid random fabric purchases. None of this fabric is meant to stay in the stash for long.

Over the past few months, I’ve been tweaking PMB styles trying to develop a set of TNT patterns. I'm getting close. So far, I think that the pants pattern is done. I'm going to have to remind myself to always use bigger side seams so I can adjust the ease levels. I will have to adjust the side seams on different fabrics to get the right fit. I’ve been working and refining this pattern forever. I finally used Anne Rowley’s flat seat adjustment and it did the trick. No more handfuls of fabric under the butt. The plan is to make black pants in different fabrics with different leg widths. I will have pants for every occasion.

Here are some of the fabrics in the lineup as I plan my sewing for the fall/winter 09:
Knits
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8202527@N04/4125719909/ts
Wovens
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8202527@N04/4126490850/
Fabric for a suit and coordinating jacket
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8202527@N04/4125721795/

I've haven't made final decisions on all of the fabrics yet. I'm still testing different versions of knit top patterns. I made some adjustments to the shell from Louise Cuttings Pure and Simple pattern. I need to make a muslin. I made some changes to a Burda pattern that I want to be a TNT scoop neck t-shirt. One final muslin is needed. Right now I'm at the muslin stage on a cardigan from Nov 09 Burda mag. I have plans buzzing around my brain for cardigans - long and short, shells and a couple of HP patterns. Notice a trend here for muslin making.

I'm going to just let things evolve so I can change my mind. Anything that I sew now will blend into the upcoming swap if I decide to participate.

She's home

My baby is fixed and back home. I got my 936 back on my birthday. It just needed maintenance.
She is working like a gem. This machine just fits me. I'm comfortable with it. I was very upset to think about having to replace it. When I checked out the upgrade, it was expensive ($1725). I rather spend that amount of money on fabric. I'm so happy that I don't need a new machine. This was a perfect gift.

Saturday, November 14, 2009

Long time, no blogging

I've been sewing slowly over the last few months but not posting anything. Most of the stuff is hanging on the door waiting for finishing touches. I started working on some jewelry and finished a few pieces.

My sewing mojo has picked up over the last week as a result of the stress that I am feeling. My computer had a virus and I lost all of my computer patterns and sewing related stuff . The only patterns that I have are the ones that I had printed out. I am now using Norton on-line back up system. I need to find my jump drive and download all of my sewing stuff.

My serger seized last Friday and is sitting in the shop. I love the machine because it is my favorite way to make knit tops. It may not be fixable and I want another one just like it. This is not going to happen because the model has been discontinued. The updated serger cost way more than I want to pay for a machine. I am luck because I had a back up serger that is a PIA but it works.

Some good things have happened the last two weeks. Great things have happened for two of my friends and I am very happy for them. I thank God that I have a good life and a DH who is so supportive. I have the tools that I need to enjoy my hobbies. I learned how to make buttonholes using my new toy, a vintage Singer and a buttonhole attachment. Finally learned how to use the blindhemmer that I got several months ago. I'll do a separate post about my learning experience.

I was feeling some mild stress until I sat down and starting sewing. I don't do well when my toys don't work. The more I sewed, the better I felt. I figured out why I was feeling stressed. Stress is only a storm passing by. I finished some garments that I like. I made some career decisions and started working on a plan to make some changes. This morning the stress is gone.

I find myself looking forward to walking in and sitting down to sew. I'm going to watch the Valentino movie and some girlie flicks while I finish up the UFO's tonight. Next week, I'll take pictures and post what I have done. I having bad hair days so the pictures will be on the dressform. I'm going to lunch and then it's back to the sewing room.

Wednesday, August 26, 2009

Re-doing my comfort spots

We are in the midst of rearranging the upstairs area in our home. DS has his space in the basement. I wanted a more private area where DH and I could spend more time together. The process started several months ago when we moved the bed to a smaller room. We made the larger bedroom into a separate sitting area for TV watching and hobbies. We bought a bigger tv because my eyes are old and I didn't want to have to wear glasses to watch TV. The only things left to do in this space is to move the treadmill out, get curtains and fix up the cabinet for my other hobby - jewelry making.

The closets in this house are way too small for clothes so we took a room and changed it into a closet. I needed to rearrange the shoes storage so I could get rid of the boxes. I just finished moving my stash into this room along one wall. All of my fabric is now in one place. It took a week to get it organized. I was a little surprised at how much fabric I own. Then I had the nerve to buy more fabric. I have enough fabric to last my lifetime. The decision to consolidate my fabric was because I couldn't see what I already had and wanted to avoid buying the same fabric over and over again. There are a couple of duplicate pieces in the stash. I need to finish putting my shoes away and do laundry. It was nice to re-visit some of the fabric that I own. The ironing board now has its own place. It has been a pleasure to iron in this room.

The sewing room also got a makeover so that I could make room for the vintage sewing machine that I bought to make buttonholes. As much as I love my Viking, it makes sorry buttonholes. So after reading about the vintage buttonholers, I bought a Singer and the buttonhole attachment on ebay. I will set this machine up just for making buttonholes. I also needed a home for my blind hemmer that I bought earlier this summer. I moved all of the fabric out of the room and the computer. I needed to rearrange things because the room was feeling cluttered. The last thing to do is to hang my rulers on the wall. The room is tight but it works for me.

Now that this is almost done, I feel more relaxed and calmer. I guess working my butt off this summer paid off. I was able to buy the rest of the sewing toys that I wanted without making an debt. This process also helped me see what I need for the wardrobe. Life is good.

Sunday, August 2, 2009

Letter to myself: reflecting on my wardrobe needs

Sewing this summer has taken a back seat to work. I have spend most of the summer working 12-14 hour days 5 days a week. It was tiring and left little time to sewing. I have thought about sewing but fatigue won out most of the time. This nonstop pace is winding down and I will have more free time. During this time, thinking about sewing and reading about sewing has kept me going. I kept up with what was happening in the sewing community but only had enough energy to sit on the sidelines and lurk. I did manage to sew a couple of things in July.

On Stitcher's Guild, there is a discussion about the next swap. This sparked some thought about fall/winter sewing. I need to reconcile the inner girl who wants to wear pretty dress up clothes with the reality of my wardrobe needs. I like dress up clothes but they are only a small part of my wardrobe needs.

I need clothes for the wife and homebody part of my life. This is not as easy as I first thought. I need to spend some time making garments which look better than the usual stuff that I wear around the house. I need some lounging pants and t-shirts for wearing around the house. I need something to change into when I come home from work and on the weekends. I need clothes for running errands with DH on the weekend. Then there is a need for a few garments to wear on date nights. I want a couple of sexier garments than I normally wear for certain occasions.

I believe in dressing up for church. This also gives me a place to wear dressier clothes. My grandmother taught us that you are suppose to look your best for God. I am uncomfortable wearing very casual clothes to church. Some traditions never end. I wish that I could wear hats. The women at church wear some fierce hats. August is casual month so I made some knit dresses that will work and can probably transition into the fall with a cardigan.

For work, I need some business casual clothes and professional garments. For my day to day wear, I can wear either scrubs or "street clothes". I prefer to wear street clothes because they fit better than scrubs. Most of the clothes will consist of knit tops and pants. Skirts don't really fit in for daily work wear. We are starting some classes which require me to be a speaker, so I need to project a professional appearance since the audience will not know me personally. This is when I can indulge in my love of skirts.

Now I need to finish sewing what is on the cutting table.